The Beauty of Spain, A Wine & Cheese Tasting with Richard Sutton

It is always a pleasure to have Richard Sutton of St. James Cheese in the house to guide us through the fascinating world of artisan cheese production. This month we are tackling Spain, where over the centuries, the rugged mountains and lush valleys have fostered many unique cultures such as the Celtic people in Galicia, the Moors in sunny Andalucía, and the Basques, whose origins are lost in history. As a result of these many distinct regions and cultures, Spain produces an amazing array of over 100 artisan cheeses from the milk of cows, sheep, and goats.

Join us Tuesday, September 1st at 6:30pm, as Richard presents a selection of these distinct hand-fashioned cheeses that are the pride of Spain paired with some of our favorite regional Spanish wines. 6 wines, 6 cheeses, lots of fun, $15. Reservations and prepayment are required for this event. Please call 504.304.0635.

Here's a look at what we'll be tasting:
Ros - Absolutely delicious, though somewhat obscure, Catalan sheep’s milk cheese hand molded in the mountains outside of Barcelona. If you like aged Manchego, you’re going to go nuts over Ros! The cheese is extra aged, sporting a granular texture and a caramel, nutty flavor with notes of brown sugar and a citrus tang finish. You have to taste it to believe it!

Miticana - A soft ripened goat cheese log from Murcia, Spain, similar to French Bucheron. Murcia is famous for its quality goat’s milk and this farm produces outstanding cheeses. This is the first soft ripened sheep log in Spain, maybe ever. The cheese is aged 21 days and is buttery and delicious. As it ages, the flavor intensifies. We'll be pairing this with our wine of the moment, the Shaya Verdejo.

Valdeón - A rich and creamy, intensely-flavored cow and goat's milk blue cheese, stronger than Stilton but less intense than Cabrales. The Valdeón wheels are wrapped in Sycamore leaves which contribute to their distinctive appearance and complex flavor. Valdeón was named best blue cheese in a 2003 national competition in Spain.

Ibores - The rustic perfection of this Spanish classic is unrivaled among its fellow goat tommes. The flavors of Spain's rough and wild west are all here in a flinty, slightly goaty cheese. The flavor is round and olivey, and goes with a wide variety of wines, charcuterie, and other cheese accompaniments.

La Serena - La Serena is a sheep's milk cheese hailing from the Extremadura region of Spain and has been name-protected with DO status since 1992. Serena is rich and creamy and combines a fruity sharpness with an earthy, pungent flavor; as the cheese ages, its rind becomes leathery and the interior ripens to a soft, smooth spreadable paste. Like many Spanish and Portuguese cheeses, Serena is a terrific party cheese and can be served by the wheel with a hole cut in the top and crusty peasant bread for dipping. Pair this cheese with Albarino or Tempranillo.

Mahon - One of the most under-sung cheeses in the world. The simple cow's milk cheese may not be much to rave about during the first few months of its life, but after a year spent in the caves of the island's ripener/gatherers, the cheese blossoms into a full, fruity, sharp marvel.

Wine of the Moment: Bodegas Y Vinedos Shaya Verdejo 2008

While searching for new Spanish wines for our upcoming "Beauty of Spain", a wine and cheese pairing event with Richard Sutton of St. James Cheese, Lucie Fitch brought me this new white imported
by Jorge Ordonez. Although Spain is much better known for its earthy, zesty reds, the increase in quality of the whites coming into the states lately has been remarkable. In fact, I've fallen in love with Spanish whites this summer and the Shaya is the source of my current infatuation.

Shaya is a new project that is a joint venture between importer Jorge Ordonez, Enrique Busto and the Gil family of Jumilla. I was blown away because I have never tasted such an intense fruit, but also, mineral laden white wine from the region of Rueda. Shaya are the local deer that like to forage on the vines. The fruit is sourced from extremely old low yielding vines planted in sandy riverstone. The average age of these gnarly vines is between 75 and 112 years old. Obvious aroma and flavor components will remind one of sauvignon blanc and semillon: citrus, melon rind. fig leaf, herb blossoms. But it is the underlying bonus of unexpected minerality that wins my heart and made it the perfect wine to pair with the Miticana cheese in our Tuesday night tasting this week.

Quite rich, but still graceful, this white shows melon, orange blossom, green almond and lime zest flavors in a thick texture. Vibrant acidity keeps this lively. Drink now through 2010. 5,500 cases made. 89 points, Wine Spectator

$15.99

Freshly Caught Yellow Fin Tuna and a Very Special Bottle of Wine....

Our new friend Mimi, Team Swirler and chef extraordinaire, gave us a gigantic piece of absolutely beautiful freshly caught tuna this week. Planning on opening a really special bottle of wine and knowing we couldn't eat all of that fish ourselves, we invited a few friends who we knew would appreciate both the wine and the meal! Kerry cut the chunk of tuna into 5 large steaks and I did a very simple preparation for the grill that included an olive oil, lemon juice and herb vinaigrette to finish the fish.

And that special bottle of wine? A stunning 1999 Yamhill Carlton, Wahle Vineyard Pinot Noir made by James Moises and his partner Mark Wahle. It was amazing how fresh and elegant yet powerful this wine was with 10 years of age! So for those of you who have been buying Moises wines and have been asking how long they can age, here's your answer: a long, long time! This wine is aging beautifully and still has at least another 10 years! Thank you James, it was a really special treat!!

Ingredients:
-juice of one lemon
-extra virgin olive oil
-salt and freshly ground black pepper
-3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
-a sprig of fresh mint, leaves picked and roughly sliced
-a sprig of fresh oregano, leaves picked and roughly sliced
-4 tuna steaks

Directions:
-Heat up the grill.

-Squeeze the lemon juice into a bowl and add 3 times the amount of olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the garlic, mint and oregano. Set aside.

-Rub the fish with a little olive oil, salt and pepper. Throw it on the grill and cook about 2 minutes each side. This should leave it a bit pink in the middle. Pull it off the grill and top each piece with the lemon herb vinaigrette.

Deliciously Simple!!

Club Swirl August Selections from California

Part wine club, part discount program, "club swirl" offers a great way to try new and exciting wines from around the world. Benefits include our 2 wines of the month, discounts on all wine purchases and tastings, invitations to special members only tastings, advance email notices on special wines brought into the store and more for only $39.99/month! Memberships applications are available, call 504.304.0635 for more details.

August Selections
2006 Elyse Korte Ranch Zinfandel

After twenty-five years in Napa, Ray Coursen, owner and winemaker of Elyse winery has learned a thing or two about producing world-class wines. According to Ray, great winemaking is like cooking, but without a flame. Just like world class chefs all over the world meld and marry different flavors to create a dish that is greater than the sum of its parts, Ray blends and combines wines to create a product that is by all definitions more astounding than the expression of an individual varietal could ever be.

The genius of Ray Coursen however is in his complete understanding of every aspect of the wine making process, from the vineyard to the glass. He has dirtied his hands throughout his illustrious career in the vineyards of Mount Eden, and Whitehall Lane, and of course he still gets his hands dirty in all the vineyards from which he sources his first class fruit. What happens after that in the hands of a fellow like Ray is more art than science, much more.

Ray started out making Zinfandel, then expanded into Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah which will continue to be the focus of his winemaking. But he just finished bottling a tiny quantity of Chardonnay, and will soon be releasing his first Pinot Noir. The wines he makes depend on the fruit that’s available, because he just can’t say no to wonderful fruit.

The Korte Ranch Zinfandel
The Zinfandel at Korte Ranch was planted about 100 years ago during the administration of Theodore Roosevelt. This 40 acre parcel just north of St. Helena is owned by Hal, Jack and Kathy Pagendarm. Hal's grandfather owned and operated the Korte Ranch Winery before Prohibition. Up on the hill are the crumbled remains of a stone cellar and house where the original Korte Winery was located.

The 2006 Elyse Korte Ranch Zinfandel is 95% Zinfandel, 5% Petite Sirah and age 11 months in American Oak (30% new). It is bright ruby red in color with aromas of citrus, lavender, dried raspberries, smoke and roasted nuts. On the palate, this wine shows deep blackberry and black cherry fruit flavors with notes of cola, coffee and mocha. This is a rich Zinfandel, with some weight on the palate followed by a slightly leather texture, good acidity, nice tannin structure and a long finish. The 2006 Korte Ranch Zinfandel is drinking wonderfully now, but if you can manage to hold some back it will age nicely for another 5 – 9 years.

Pair with beef stew, ribs, barbecue or smoked meats.
1,316 cases made

Retail Price: $24.99
Club Swirl Price: $23.75/bottle or $21.25 with club swirl case discount


2006 Elyse Nero Misto
Nero Misto means mixed black and the wine is just that, a California field blend of international and old world varietals. The fruit for this is sourced from different Napa vineyards including Wood, Chavez-Leeds, Pelkan, Massa, Souyoultzis, Rossi and Naggiar.

It is a blend of 38% Zinfandel, 34% Petite Sirah, 10% Syrah, 10% Carignane,and 8% blend of Gamay, Alicante Bouschet, Grand Noir, and Barbera and is aged 10 ½ months in used French & American Oak.

The 2006 Nero Misto (Italian for “mixed black”) is deep blackish-burgundy color with a nose of dark black fruits, dried herbs, pepper, leather, and wild blueberries.This delicious “field blend” styled wine has a strong mid-palate with flavors of pomegranate, black fruits, dried cherries and figs with a hint of spice. The wine is medium to full in body, with juicy fruit, firm tannins, great acid balance and a long,lush finish. Drinking well right now, though it can’t hurt to decant. Will cellar well for the next 5– 7 years.

Nero Misto is an extremely versatile wine, particularly good with Italian food, spicy southwest cuisine and steaks and chops off the grill.

1,158 cases made

Retail Price: $20.99
Club Swirl Price: $19.99/bottle or $17.86 with club swirl case discount

2007 Adelaida Cellars Version White
Referred to locally as the Adelaida Hills (not to be confused with Australia’s Adelaide Hills), they’re part of the Santa Lucia Mountains, which span 140 miles from Carmel Bay through San Luis Obispo County in California's Central Coast. Exciting things are happening in these remote hills, valleys and benchlands northwest of Paso Robles, so much so that in the June 30, 2005 issue of Wine Advocate, Robert M. Parker, Jr. asserts “there is no question that a decade from now, the top viticultural areas of Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills and the limestone hillsides west of Paso Robles will be as well-known as the glamorous vineyards of Napa Valley.”

So just what is it that makes this area so special in terms of winemaking? As in all of the great wine regions of the world, the soil, climate and topography together create an ideal environment for quality grape growing. Given that they have some pretty special ground, with some of the highest elevations in the area, a wide variety of slopes and orientations, and those sought after limestone soils, it's not surprising that the area is producing concentrated, well-structured, age worthy wines.

Over forty years ago, Dr. Stanley Hoffman recognized the area's potential and planted some of the region's first vines. The wines produced with legendary consultant Andre Tchelistcheff
under the Hoffman Mountain Ranch (HMR) label provided early proof that world-class wines could be grown in Paso Robles.

Today, the Von Steenwyk family owns a portion of that HMR vineyard as part of the Adelaida Cellars holdings that includes about 500 acres of walnut trees and 150 acres of vineyards. The winery, which originated in 1981, is located 14 miles east of the Pacific Ocean at an elevation of 1,800 feet in the Santa Lucia mountain chain. Adelaida's wild and rugged mountainside vineyards are loaded with limestone and calcareous shale. According to winemaker Terry Culton, "these characteristics cause the vines to strengthen. This results in added stress on the vines, which lowers the yields but produces more intensely flavored fruit". In keeping with the winery's sustainable philosophy, the vineyards are not tilled, encouraging native grasses, wild sage and rosemary to flourish between the rows.

Adelaida produces from its own Estate vineyards and a select group of contracted vineyards on the west side of Paso Robles. The fruit for the Version comes from the Glenrose Vineyard, at 1,200 – 1,600 feet in elevation and 16 miles from the Pacific Ocean, and is adjacent to their own Viking Estate Vineyard.

Adelaida Version (Rhone Style White) Glenrose Vineyard 2007 - (58% Roussanne, 42% Grenache Blanc) Beautiful lime, pear and honey aromas with thirst quenching acidity and a fresh minerally finish this is an amazing food wine!

Pair it with rich seafood dishes, or light chicken or pork.

Retail Price: $21.99
Club Swirl Price: $20.99/bottle or $18.69 with club swirl case discount

Whole Roasted Fish Paired with Adelaida Version White

Cooking fish whole, on the bone with the head and tail attached, is absolutely the best way to eat it. The meat around the bones just seems sweeter and tastier! I ran over to Kjean's Fish Market on Carollton to see what they had and was able to pick up some fresh trout. Just ask them to gut and scale the fish for you. This recipe is actually fairly simple with out a lot of mess in the kitchen and the end result is fantastic! I've adapted from Lidia Bastianich's, Lidia's Italian Table recipe for Whole Roasted Striped Bass. Apparently it is a staple on the menu at her restaurant Becco in New York, and she prepared a version of this for the Pope in 2008!

Makes 6 servings

For the garlic-infused oil:
1 ½ cups extra virgin olive oil
8 cloves garlic, sliced
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

For the fish:
6 whole trout, about 1 1/4 lb. each, eviscerated and scaled
6 fresh or dried bay leaves
6 sprigs fresh rosemary
3 medium-sized red onions, peeled and cut into 1/3″ slices
6 small, firm vine ripened tomatoes, cored and cut in half

To serve:
5 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3 tablespoons minced fresh Italian parsley leaves

-Prepare the garlic-infused oil about half an hour before roasting the fish: In a small bowl blend the olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper. Allow the sauce to steep for half an hour.

-Preheat the oven to 475 F. Use the garlic-infused oil to grease two heavy, large (at least 22 x 18-inches) roasting pans, preferably with low sides. Brush each fish on both sides with the olive oil mixture and enclose the tails in aluminum foil. Place one bay leaf and one sprig of rosemary in the cavity of each fish. Arrange the fish in the prepared pans, leaving as much space between them, and between the sides of the pan, as possible. Arrange the onion slices and tomato halves around the fish in both pans so as not to overlap with each other.

-Season the fish and vegetables with salt and pepper and divide the wine between the pans. Bake until the fish and vegetables begin to brown, about 25 minutes, drizzling occasionally with about ½ cup of the remaining garlic-infused oil. (The rest of the garlic-infused oil will be used as the base of a sauce to be served with the fish.) Remove the fish from the oven.

-Stir the lemon juice and parsley into the remaining garlic-infused oil and season with salt and pepper. Place one whole fish on each plate and flank with the vegetables. Spoon any sauce from the baking pan over each serving.

-Stir the lemon-parsley sauce well and spoon a little over each serving. Set the rest of the sauce on the table for passing as fish is being enjoyed. Pour a nice glass of Adelaida Version and relax!

Wine of the Moment: 2007 Adelaida Version White

Referred to locally as the Adelaida Hills (not to be confused with Australia’s Adelaide Hills), they’re part of the Santa Lucia Mountains, which span 140 miles from Carmel Bay through San Luis Obispo County in California's Central Coast. Exciting things are happening in these remote hills, valleys and benchlands northwest of Paso Robles, so much so that in the June 30, 2005 issue of Wine Advocate, Robert M. Parker, Jr. asserts “there is no question that a decade from now, the top viticultural areas of Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills and the limestone hillsides west of Paso Robles will be as well-known as the glamorous vineyards of Napa Valley.”

So just what is it that makes this area so special in terms of winemaking? As in all of the great wine regions of the world, the soil, climate and topography together create an ideal environment for quality grape growing. Given that they have some pretty special ground, with some of the highest elevations in the area, a wide variety of slopes and orientations, and those sought after limestone soils, it's not surprising that the area is producing concentrated, well-structured, age worthy wines.

More specifically here is what you'll find:
-the calcareous soils (calcium carbonate, limestone or chalk) of the area and the significance of this rocky, relatively infertile type of soil contribute to the exciting quality of the wines on the Westside. Calcareous soils, in particular, contribute intense bouquets, firm acids and strong alcohol but with finesse.
-climate during the growing season, specifically the hot days and cool nights. The Westside commonly has temperature swings of 50-55 degrees day-to-night, largely due to cooling breezes from Pacific Ocean creating prime conditions for ripe fruit with a balance of sugar and acid.
-dominated by the Santa Lucia Mountains it is an amazingly varied area with flatlands, river bottoms, benchlands, hills and mountains. There are multiple microclimates and diverse vineyard sites ranging from 800-2000 feet above sea level.

Over forty years ago, Dr. Stanley Hoffman recognized the area's potential and planted some of the region's first vines. The wines produced with legendary consultant Andre Tchelistcheff
under the Hoffman Mountain Ranch (HMR) label provided early proof that world-class wines could be grown in Paso Robles.

Today, the Von Steenwyk family owns a portion of that HMR vineyard as part of the Adelaida Cellars holdings that includes about 500 acres of walnut trees and 150 acres of vineyards. The winery, which originated in 1981, is located 14 miles east of the Pacific Ocean at an elevation of 1,800 feet in the Santa Lucia mountain chain. Adelaida's wild and rugged mountainside vineyards are loaded with limestone and calcareous shale. According to winemaker Terry Culton, "these characteristics cause the vines to strengthen. This results in added stress on the vines, which lowers the yields but produces more intensely flavored fruit". In keeping with the winery's sustainable philosophy, the vineyards are not tilled, encouraging native grasses, wild sage and rosemary to flourish between the rows.

Adelaida produces from its own Estate vineyards and a select group of contracted vineyards on the west side of Paso Robles. The fruit for the Adelaida Cellars Version comes from the Glenrose Vineyard, at 1,200 – 1,600 feet in elevation and 16 miles from the Pacific Ocean, and is adjacent to their own Viking Estate Vineyard.

Adelaida Version (Rhone Style White) Glenrose Vineyard 2007 - (58% Roussanne, 42% Grenache Blanc) Beautiful lime, pear and honey aromas with thirst quenching acidity and a fresh minerally finish this is an amazing food wine! Try it with my recipe this week, Lidia Bastianich's Whole Roasted Fish.

Try this wine at our Friday Free All this week with Gabe Daigle, $21.99.

Dr. James Moises Rocks Ponce de Leon Street!

Saturday's launch party at Swirl for Moises Wines was a special night as owner and local ER doc James Moises and friends generously poured fabulous, small production, single vineyard Oregon Pinots for 3 hours straight! The standing-room-only crowd stood elbow to elbow inside and out to celebrate the first ever release of James' wines, a true labor of love for the native New Orleanian! Guests were treated to glasses of the 2006 Yamhill-Carlton and Holmes Hill and the 2007 Yamhill-Carlton, Holmes Hill and Vieux Carre, of which total production for all wines combined is under 300 cases! Great food was provided by Chef Richard Papier and RK Rowell's art provided a colorful backdrop for the event.

Even better attended than the Rachel Ray Food Network filming in the spring, if James' future success can be measured by the number of attendees, he has it made as local musician Phil deGruy shouted, "This is amazing! It's like being at the House of Blues!"

Congratulations James and thank you for letting us be part of your celebration!

Check out the slide show in the sidebar on the right and click here for past posts on Moises Wines.

Wine of the Moment, 2006 Moises Wahle Vineyards Yamhill Carlton Pinot Noir

Located 35 miles southwest of Portland and 40 miles east of the Pacific Ocean, the Yamhill-Carlton District is a sub-appellation of Oregon’s famed Willamette Valley AVA. It is a horseshoe shaped appellation that surrounds the two communities from which it is named, Yamhill and Carlton, and is home to some of the finest Pinot Noir vineyards in the world.

Once primarily known for tree-fruit orchards, nurseries and livestock, wheat and logging, the area now known as the Yamhill-Carlton District has a relatively recent wine history. In 1974, pioneers like the Campbells and the Wahles were planting vines long before other areas of the North Willamette Valley. Other quickly followed suit and today it is known as one of the country's finest producers of cool-climate varietals and was officially established as an AVA in 2004.

The vineyards of the Yamhill-Carlton District were planted mostly in the late 1980’s and early 1990’s. The primary soil of this area is called Willakenzie, named after the Willamette and McKenzie rivers. It is comprised of coarse-grained, ancient marine sedimentary soils, over sandstone and siltstone, that drain quickly, making them ideal for viticulture. Grapes grown in this soil type often result in wines lower in acid than those made from grapes grown in other areas.

Yamhill-Carlton vineyards grow on sites with elevations between 200 and 1,000 feet, avoiding low valley frost and high elevation temperatures unsuitable for effective ripening. Geographically, this area is protected by the Coast Range to the west, the Chehalem Mountains to the north and the Dundee Hills to the east.

With the orientation of vineyards and unique soil conditions found in the AVA, the Yamhill Carlton District is a leading producer of concentrated, more lush styles of Oregon Pinot Noir. As with other Willamette Valley AVAs, only those vineyards falling within defined elevations (in this case between 200 and 1,000 feet) are permitted to use the AVA designation. This trend amongst the new Willamette Valley sub-appellations, such as the Yamhill Carlton District, only reaffirms Oregon as the leader of ‘terroir’ consciousness in North America.

The 2006 Moises Wahle Vineyards Yamhill Carlton Pinot Noir is produced with wine sourced from the Wahle Family’s initial vineyard planting located in the heart of Oregon’s Yamhill-Carlton District. Established in 1974, it is one of the oldest Pinot Noir vineyards planted in Willakenzie soil. The vineyard sits at 450' elevation and enjoys a beautiful southern exposure.

The wine was aged 11 months in French oak and another year and 9 months in the bottle. It has aromas of red and black fruits, with added elements of herbs, cloves and fresh-turned earth. On the palate, cherry and cassis dominate with herbal notes and continued spiced undertones. The lower acidity level brings a lush mouth feel and makes the Yamhill Carlton approachable young. Less than 100 cases produced.
Retail Price: $39.99

This wine is one of the gems we'll be tasting with Dr. James Moises at his launch party on August 15 from 6 to 9pm at Swirl. This is a "don't miss" event for anyone interested in tasting high quality, small production Oregon Pinot from a native New Orleanian. For more information on James and his wines, check out my blog post, Moises Wines, Driven by Passion, Heart and Healing.

Grilled Salmon Paired with Moises Wahle Vineyards Yamhill Carlton Pinot Noir

I went for a classic pairing here for the Moises Pinot Noir (yes, red wines can pair with fish!) and kept the marinade as something that would compliment the wine and let it really shine. Pinot Noir is a versatile wine that works well with a variety of foods . Its acidity helps balance the rich, fatty nature of salmon, making it a great choice. The thyme in this dish really helps bring out the herbal notes of the wine and the lushness of it is great with the melt-in-your-mouth fatty salmon. And please don't waste the beautiful Moises wine by putting it in the marinade! The rule of thumb in using wine for cooking is that it needs to be something you don't mind drinking while you cook, but don't use anything expensive!


Grilled Salmon with Pinot Noir Marinade
Serves 2

2 salmon fillets, rinsed and patted dry
1 cup pinot noir
2 shallots, peeled and sliced
2 springs fresh thyme, chopped
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon whole peppercorns
salt to taste

Combine marinade ingredients in a large zip-lock bag or non-reactive covered dish. Add salmon and turn to coat. Refrigerate, turning several more times, at least 30 minutes but not more than an hour. Place salmon in hinged grill basket. Grill for approximately 5 to 7 minutes per side or until fish flakes.

For more info on the wine go to Wine of the Moment, 2006 Moises Wahle Vineyards Yamhill Carlton Pinot Noir.

Moises Wines; Driven by Passion, Heart and Healing

Born and raised in New Orleans, Jesuit and LSU graduate, ER doctor and professor, Dr. James Moises is a busy man. Somehow between working in the ERs of both Tulane and Baptist, and teaching, he is finding time to follow his other passion, making wine. And not just any wine, we’re talking very small production, serious Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Willamette Valley made with sustainable vineyard practices and minimalist intervention in winemaking.

When asked about his leap into the world of wine, James credits his good friend and colleague Mark Wahle of Mark Wahle Vineyards. Residents together at LSU in the 90’s, Mark gained his wine knowledge through UC Davis where he completed his Viticulture & Enology studies in 1988, and his hands on experience in his family’s 100 acre hilltop vineyard site outside of Yamhill, Oregon. Traveling extensively with Mark through Europe, California and Oregon, James discovered his love of wine and decided he wanted to take the plunge into the challenging world of Oregon Pinot.

In 2002 James bought 40 acres of land in the Eola Hills area of Oregon, where Mark was also planting vines. Named the 'Holmes Hill' vineyard (pictured left) after the original homesteader of the property, James and his closest friends and family including our friend and neighbor Bob McGuire, pounded the posts and planted the vines themselves. Controlling the process from start to finish, both he and Mark use a very hands-on approach to both the viticultural and winemaking practices. Incorporating sustainable vineyard practices is a priority. From using dry farming techniques (no irrigation), no herbicides, hand harvesting and sorting to the production of the wine in the Carlton Winemaker’s Studio, the first winery to be registered with the U.S. Green Building Council, these guys are serious about what they do and how they do it. Already planning expansion, they are currently building their new winemaking facilities in the Holmes Hill area (pictured right) and would like to expand to 150 planted acres in the next 2-3 years which would put them in the top five in terms of largest vineyard land holdings in Oregon.

James’ first vintage release was in 2006, producing an old vine Pinot with fruit from Mark’s original family plot that was planted in 1974, and a Holmes Hill Pinot from the recently planted 40 acre site. Total production was only 150 cases in 2006 and in 2007. With the release of the Vieux Carre, a blend of the old vine Yamhill Carlton and the Holmes Hill fruit, production will increase to 300 cases.

The health benefits of red wine fit in with James’ other passion in life, practicing medicine. His affinity for Pinot Noir is supported with the related medical research, as James says “Studies have shown the Pinot Noir grape contains the highest levels of the super antioxidant resveratrol”. In fact, Cornell researcher Leroy Creasy found the highest resveratrol levels in pinot noir grapes that are grown in cooler, rainy places like the Finger Lakes region of upstate New York and Oregon's Willamette Valley. Long sown in France's cool Burgundy region, pinot noir is considered a finicky grape to grow, in part because it is susceptible to rot which may be the reason it produces more resveratrol than other grapes--up to 40 times as much resveratrol as grapes such as merlot and cabernet sauvignon.

While Mark is the winemaker, James is there every step of the way, involved from planting to bottling and he wouldn’t have it any other way. He loves the creative process involved in “taking this cluster of fruit and producing something really special that will bring enjoyment to others.” And he’d like you to experience that enjoyment first hand by attending his release party on August 15! “I’m really excited about this launch as everyone who has listened to me talk about this project for the last 6-7 years will finally get to taste my wines!”

So please join us on Saturday, August 15 from 6 to 9pm as Dr. James Moises will be popping corks on his amazing 2006 and 2007 Yamhill Carlton Old Vine, 2006 and 2007 Holmes Hill and the 2007 Vieux Carre, as we celebrate his début as a serious player in the world of Oregon Pinots!

Wine of the Moment: Finca Goulart Reserve Malbec Cabernet

The story goes like this...In 1915, Brazilian born Marshall Goulart was living in Argentina and bought two separate 15 hectare vineyard parcels in the Lujan de Cuyo region of Mendoza and planted them with cabernet and malbec. He was a little preoccupied with the political situation of his homeland and in 1932 he became a leader of Brazil’s Constitutional Revolution. Somewhere during this time the records and titles to the land were lost and not rediscovered until 1988 when his granddaughter Erika found them among some of her grandfathers papers. She traveled to Argentina to reclaim the property and decided she wanted to move there and work the land. She named the winery Finca Goulart in honor of her grandfather and has been making wine there ever since.

I ran across information on the Finca Goulart wines a few months ago and asked to taste them, but they jumped distributors and I didn't know where they had landed. Until last week that is when Linda Smith from Republic walked into the shop with "2 awesome Argentine wines that I think you will like!" And there they were, the Goulart Reserve wines, a malbec and a malbec cab blend. Upon tasting I instantly ordered both, but it was the blend that really stood out and ended up being the less expensive of the two.

Its a 60/40 blend of malbec and cab with the fruit coming from the original vineyards that Marshall purchased in 1915. The nose had beautiful black fruit balanced out by aromas of cocoa and coffee. Very elegant and smooth on the palate with lush blackberries, spice, anise and again a nice coffeed richness, this was QUITE impressive!! Even Kerry, who is not a malbec fan, was won over by this wine.

If you love Argentine wines you need to check this out. Its quality is amazing for the price of $17.50! Check out Tanzer's review:

2007 Goulart Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva Mendoza
Deep medium ruby. Aromas of blackberry, licorice, violet pastille and espresso. Sweet, spicy and intensely flavored, with a creamy quality to the fruit but also excellent energy. Finishes with broad, serious tannins and excellent length. This offers terrific value.

LIOCO, Exciting "Wines of Origin"

While a self proclaimed old world wine girl (yes, even at middle age I still think of my self as a girl...) there are times when an new world wine or two can turn my head. And while many a wine maker states they are producing wines in the old world style, expressing the place in which it is grown in a pure unadulterated style, void of over manipulation and use of harmful chemicals, I find it is rarely the case. For me, finding wines with soul that truly express the typicity of the varietal in the new world can be a difficult task. But when it does happen, it's a wonderful thing, which is why I'm so excited about the LIOCO wines from California.

LIOCO is a labor of love between Matt Licklider, a seasoned wine import specialist, and Kevin O'Connor, wine director at the esteemed Spago-Beverly Hills. The project began in 1995 as a test between the two to see if California was capable of producing "wines of origin", wines that truly represent where they came from. They do not own vineyards or a winery, but purchase fruit from trusted growers and produce them in a state-of-the-art cooperative in Santa Rosa, allowing them to direct all of their resources toward the sourcing of the best grapes from the state's premier vineyards.

Their quest is to build wines from the ground up using an old world approach. They accomplish this in a number of ways including using older vines, matching clones with the right mesoclimate, hand harvesting, low yields, using natural viticultural techniques, native yeasts, low or no wood contact, no fining or filtration and just over all non interventionalist winemaking.

I was introduced to these wines by our friend Matt Lirette of Lirette Selections. He brought them into the market when he began his new distributorship last year and had the full line up at his portfolio tasting. We picked up the Sonoma Coast Chardonnay and Carneros Pinot immediately and later added the Rose of Pinot Noir and this week the Indica, all of which over deliver for the price, another statement I don't usually make about California wine....

Matt will be in the house on Friday, August 7 pouring these 4 amazing wines so come and see what all of the fuss is about and in the meantime, check out what Tanzer has to say about the LIOCO wines:

2007 LIOCO Chardonnay Sonoma County
Pale gold. Vibrant, pure aromas of citrus fruit, flowers and herbs. Juicy lime and lemongrass flavors are complemented by notes of anise and honeysuckle. Gains power on the finish, which strongly repeats the anise note and offers good mineral cut. This is an outstanding value. $21, 90pts.

2007 LIOCO Pinot Noir Carneros
Vivid red. Smoky red berry and cherry aromas are complicated by pungent herbal and floral notes. Mineral-driven red fruit flavors are refreshingly tangy, with a bite of cherry skin adding grip. Becomes deeper and chewier with air and finishes with excellent clarity and sweet persistence. Give this some decanter time. $37, 90pts.

2007 LIOCO Red Wine Indica Mendocino County
A blend of carignane, petit sirah, grenache and mourvedre) Bright red. Flamboyant aromas of raspberry, cherry preserves and incense. Lively but supple red berry flavors are given depth by anise and cherry pit qualities. Reminds me of an open-knit 2007 southern Rhone wine, with excellent finishing clarity and persistent sweetness. $21, 90pts

Seared Scallops in Pernod Cream Sauce

Our DC10 challenge this week had a "white on white" theme where each couple had to prepare a dish using only white ingredients. Our assignment was the entree and the first thing that came to mind for me was using scallops, something we rarely cook or eat, making it a bit more interesting for us.

Although Pernod is not usually something I cook with, I found a lot of information on line about how well it goes with seafood. So the challenge took us out of our comfort zone in more ways than one, but the dish was a success, receiving high marks from the very finicky group of foodies.

Expensive, of course, Whole Food sells beautiful large sea scallops that were absolutely delicious. And sorry, the picture is not my best, my photographic skills begin to decline after a cocktail and a few glasses of wine...

Serves 8

2 lbs Large Sea Scallops
3 Tbs butter
3 Tbs olive oil
1 large shallot chopped small
3/4 C white wine
1/2 lemon, juiced
3/4 C heavy cream
1 Tbs Pernod (or other anise flavoured liqueur)
2 Tbs fresh tarragon, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
1-1/2lbs pasta (I used homemade ribbons)

The trick with this recipe is to make the sauce ahead, then time the pasta and scallops so they are done at the same time. Depending on the type of pasta you’re using it will take different amounts of time, so I’ll leave it to your discretion as to when to start the pasta.

For the sauce, heat the olive oil in a pan. Saute the tarragon with the shallots until they are soft and starting to caramelize. Add the wine and lemon juice and reduce until thick and reduced. Add the cream and Pernod and turn down the heat to keep it warm, but don't let it bubble.

Clean and dry the scallops. Heat pan over high heat until hot. Lightly salt and pepper the scallops. Add the butter to the pan and swirl to melt. When the bubbling subsides add the scallops in a single layer without overcrowding the pan. Sear undisturbed until brown then flip with tongs. Cook until the top 1/3 and bottom 1/3 of the scallop is opaque and the middle 1/3 is still translucent.

Transfer the scallops to a plate then add the cream sauce to the pan that the scallops came out of and deglaze. Put the drained pasta in the sauce and stir to coat.

Plate the pasta then top with the scallops and drizzle any remaining sauce on top.

We paired this with the 2007 Ceretto Blange which worked well but I think my second choice, the Bucci Verdicchio would have provided a little more body and acidity for the creamy sauce.